The hands of a simple and inexpensive building / installation / technical hot air gun YTL-015. The tool is used in construction and repair work to remove paintwork, mastics, etc., it will not be superfluous during gardening, shaping, shrinking, evaporating large chips, and many other situations when it is required to heat some kind of locally plot.
A hairdryer can be dried, heated adhesives, metal compounds, thermoplastic parts to shape, solder and tin metals, thaw water pipes.
Box Size: 256mm x 115mm
Power Supply: 220V-240V, 50Hz-60Hz, 1500W
Air Consumption: 450L / min
Operating temperature: 300 ℃ (low mode) 500 ℃ (upper mode)
Nozzle Diameter: 35.3mm
Options: hot air gun, 4 nozzles, instructions
The hair dryer comes in a cardboard box with a minimum of information, but you can see that there are several options for the hair dryer of this manufacturer. The box suffered a little damage during the journey, but the contents were not lost.
The hairdryer and nozzles were packed in personal plastic bags.
The instruction shows in detail the areas of application of the hair dryer, recalls safety precautions and situations where the hair dryer cannot be used.
Complete nozzles for performing various types of work are made of steel and are well magnetized. In their manufacture it is difficult to somehow screw up – made neatly, without burrs and other indecencies.
The first of the nozzles shown above makes the airflow flat and wide (outlet width 88 mm). So it will be convenient to soften the adhesive base, bitumen over a wide area.
The next nozzle has a specific shape with a width of 40 mm.
The remaining two nozzles are round, with different heights and different output dimeters.
The first has an external diameter of 15 mm, the internal 9.6 mm, the second 23.2 and 21 mm.
The manufacturing quality of the plastic parts of the dryer itself is quite average, traces of flash are visible and there is a specific smell. Not strong, but still there.
The hair dryer is large enough, the body has a texture from slipping out of hands. The usual wire length for this kind of technology is 1.4 meters. Plug for European outlets.
The handle is 115 mm long and on it in front is a three-position switch, and in the lower part there is a steel loop for hanging and mounting on a horizontal surface.
The loop does not hang loose, but is firmly fixed in the grooves on the case.
The rear plug, devoid of holes, rotates freely, but does not fall out of the hair dryer body. There are options for hairdryers where the plug serves as a regulator. But nothing is regulated here – the control is carried out by a switch on the handle.
On the other side of the case, air intakes are also located and there is a sticker indicating the technical characteristics.
The steel nozzle in which the heating element is hidden is covered with a plastic casing for safety reasons.
The nozzle exit is made by a grid, and behind it you can see the diffuser, mounted on the "corn" of the heating element.
Hair dryer dimensions: length 25, height 18 cm.
The hair dryer weighs 620 grams – the hand will not get tired.
The nozzle diameter at the place where the nozzles are worn is 35.4 mm.
To inspect the insides, you first need to remove the protective cover around the nozzle.
The nozzle with a heating element at the outlet of the housing is additionally fixed with a steel ring, so there is no backlash in the housing.
The main parts of the electric circuit of the hair dryer are connected by screw clamps and terminals. There is a lot of free space in the case and it is quite possible that in other models it is occupied by a flow and temperature control board.
Having unscrewed two self-tapping screws, the fixing engine can be removed and the engine and nozzle can be disconnected from the heating element. No markings on the engine could be found.
A mica pad is placed between the heating element and the nozzle. Reliability of fastening the heater in the nozzle is ensured by four rigid wires going to it and pressed by a plastic flange.
Unfortunately, I did not find a thermal fuse in case of an abnormal stop of the engine, and such a situation will inevitably lead to burnout being written off, so you need to monitor this moment.
The second not very pleasant moment was the poor quality of injection molds – traces of flashing were almost everywhere, including in grilles for penetration of outboard air on the sides of the housing inward to the engine and heating element. Since this could lead to overheating of the heater, the burr had to be removed.
Tests on the subject of power consumption and air flow temperature were carried out in an upright position, using the bracket on the handle. Moreover, the hair dryer was stable and did not crawl along the surface, i.e. vibration during operation of the hair dryer is not at all significant.
In this hair dryer model, for some reason, in the first position of the switch, the maximum heating temperature and maximum engine speed are turned on, and in the second minimum. In my opinion, it would be more logical to do the opposite, although this can be corrected by turning the switch over.
It was experimentally found that the highest temperature in any position of the switch is fixed by a thermometer at a distance of about one centimeter from the nozzle array in the center.
So in the second position of the switch (minimum), the power consumption was 913 watts, and the flow temperature was 369 degrees.
In the first position of the switch (maximum), the hair dryer consumed 1228 watts, heating the air flow to 406 degrees. The power did not reach 1500 watts, but the network did not have 240 maximum permissible volts, but it seems that the declared power of 1500 watts was measured at this voltage value.
I reached the temperature indicated on the product page at 800 degrees using a nozzle with the smallest diameter. In this case, at a minimum, the hair dryer warmed up air to 669, and at a maximum to 827 degrees, i.e. declared 800 degrees are achievable, and the desired air temperature can be set by changing the nozzle and the distance to the heating object.
The first practical application was carried out on an old motherboard when evaporating the north bridge VT8363A.
Warming up took no more than a minute and nearby components were not affected. Smaller components are soldered even faster.
However, this is not a specialized use of the tool, its main area of application is still plastics, pipes, paint and mastics.
It turns out to put on a thermoshrinkage much more accurately, than by other methods (a lighter, a soldering iron, etc.).
When heated, plastic bottles give good shrinkage and a strip of it as a rope or tow. Any garden construction can be reliably connected with such a waste strip, and columns of pipes can be protected from moisture by scraps of plastic bottles. The props in the photo are not kazist, but only the principle is shown.
Removing old paint with a hair dryer is much more convenient and safer than using a gas burner or blowtorch.
Well, it’s easier to melt barbecue without matches / lighters and ignition fluid.
After working with a hairdryer for some time, I noticed that the specific smell that was originally present completely disappeared. There is no significant heating of the case. The lack of electronic temperature control can be compensated by using different nozzles.